Gourmet Article

Pork is a staple food of the mountain regions of northern Italy
where it's often said that a well butchered pig should leave 'nothing but the oink' behind. As a pig is typically around 30% fat
thrifty locals had to come up with a way to use and preserve this valuable source of protein
and the result is Lardo.

Lardo di Colonnata
to give it its full name
is a delicacy produced from pork fat in and around the Tuscan mountain town of Colonnata. Happily for fans of cured meat
it's not only a frugal way of preserving pork fat over winter - it's delicious too!

It's made in large vats known as conche
fashioned from marble quarried at the nearby 'white mountain' of Cararra
which are first liberally rubbed with garlic. Next
layers of pork fat
salt
and a special mix of herbs and spices are added until the vats are full. The conche are then sealed with a wooden lid and left in cool mountain caves for 6 months or longer to mature in the clean air.

After the maturation time is over
the conche are opened to reveal a silky-smooth
meltingly tender 'meat' which can be eaten in much the same way as Parma Ham or other prosciutto.

While Lardo is often used to keep roasted meats moist by placing a thin layer over the skin
it is also delicious simply sliced thinly and eaten with bread
olives
and a good extra virgin olive oil as part of an antipasto course. It is not at all tough or greasy
and is well worth trying even if the idea of eating pure fat leaves you a little apprehensive!

Despite the long years of making Lardo in the traditional way
most of the examples that you may find in your local deli or store will have been made in a much more industrial setting
mainly as a result of modern hygiene laws taking precedence over customs and heritage. Gone are the marble conche and the mountain air
replaced by stainless steel and air conditioning.

However
visitors to the area around Colonnata may still be lucky and get hold of Lardo made in the old way that has been proven over the centuries - just don't tell the authorities if you do!